Since El Boson, Tina and I hit the ripio (gravel) roads of Argentina. They were a bit of a shock to be honest and it had me thinking wether we had seriously underestimated the next two months as most of way south will be on rippo. The road was bearly rideable, a mix of fist sized rocks and deep sand together with scprcing heat slowed out pace to a crawl. Luckily, it seemed to save the worst for first (well we hope so).
We meandered past the gorgous lak es in Los Alerces National Park on virtual traffic free roads, went fo a few short walks and made camp on the side of a river for New Years. The scenery was supurb, small rememnant glaciers hung high in the Andes and lush forest led all the way down tot he lakes, and there was barely ever a cloud in the sky. One thing I found interested was the flora. It resembeled the mountains of New Zealand closely. The forests were dominated by Nothofagus sp. (beech) with the odd podocarp intermersed for good measure. Even some of the birds were similar, I saw a bush wren looking bird (long since extinct in NZ) running around the bush!
We toasted the New Year in with a few beers with the fellow campers (early though as we were in bed by 11) and were up at the crack of dawn on New Years day eager to avoid the heat of the afternoons thats had been getting worse by the day. Just as we left the park we were astonished by a cavalcade of cars (that lasted all day) coming in the other direction, loaded to the hilt with various camping apparatus. Everyone had been telling us that Argentinians did not go on holiday until the New Years. We didn´t actually think that this meant that EVERYONE went on holiday first day of the year. Nevertheless, it was gret timing for us as we enjoyed a 20km strectch of ´pavimento´ before being thrust back into a hinesouly rough gravel road once more.
The route over the Andes to Chile strangely did not involve any major climbing, we simply slipped though a gap in the mountains following a river bed. The last day in Argentina was very hot.... up to 40C. The locals we met were astonished by the heat too.... one person told us it was the hottest day in December in living memory. It felt like it!
The first small town in Chile was Futaleufu, a mecca for white water kayakers and rafters in South America. It was a lovely little town in a stunning setting in a bowl of mountains. We spent a large portion of the day waiting outside the ATM while they tried to fix it. Eventualy they did, we got our all important Chilean Pesos and were set for the long strectch of wilderness ahead. We stayed the night at a peaceful little camp site on the river and jumping in for a swim pulled up a huge hunk of Didymo from the rocks... not pretty stuff.
Yesterday we hit the famed Carretera Austral. A road built with forced labout by Pinocet in to 70s to open up access to the southern portion of coastal Chile. The ride to it was stunning, through steeped gorged ravines, waterfalls and towering snowy peaks. It was also cloudy, slightly cool and there was even a touch of rain... it was bliss after the long wee of sun and heat we had had. Unfortunately during the descent we were one of the first on scene at a nasty traffic accident. We did what we could to help and after more help had arrived, we cycled on. I can´t really explain how it felt to leave after that.... just on with our holiday while behind us lives had changed for ever.
The ripio of the Carretera Australis is bliss compared with the rippo in Argentina... it is rideable, sometiomes fast and enjoyable. The road basically disects a wet forest with small farmletts here and there and the odd small town. The weather is damp but pleasant and we are looking forward to the road ahead.
I hope everyone is well and is enjoying the New Year... more updates from the road soon...
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