Saturday 26 February 2011
Wednesday 23 February 2011
Shaken up but well
We are both ok after the Chirstchruch earthquake. Pretty shaken up (literally), but ok. Our house has suffered much more than last time, but is still liveable. No water & power for a while, but our phones are working (both landline & mobile) and will be able to stay in touch through email from friends places as well.
Saturday 19 February 2011
Wednesday 16 February 2011
The End
It is the end. The end of the journey, even the end of the world... as Ushuaia likes to call itself. In fact it is the second time we have arrived at the end of the world, after passing through several days ago on our way to Tierra Del Fuego National Park.
The end of the road for us was literally a dot on the map at the end of Route 3 called Lapataia... supposodly the southern most road in the world... if you ignore that fact that the Islands to the south have roads, but they are part of Chile so they don´t count... if your an Argentine that is.
It was only 25km from our camp site in Ushuaia to Lapataia and it didn´t take us long to get there, and quickly take the obligatory photo before the heavens opened and tried to freeze us on the spot in a very Arctic downpour. After it had passed we took ourselves off on several short walks before setting up camp in a beautiful glade of forest. That night a large fox kept pacing around our tent and both of us were more than surprised to see the size of it when we looked outside to see who was stomping around. We later found out that this particular fox was endemic to Tierra Del Fuego and was known for its large size.
The weather was kind to us in the park, and despite the constant biting wind, the sun was largely out and the rain kept to a minimum. Yesterday we took advantage of it and hiked up a 1000 m peak to glorious views of the Beagle Channel and Islands further south. Today we half-heartedly attempted a coastal walk but our bodies were weary after a hard two months travelling and we spent most of the time lying on the grass eating. It was time to head back to Ushuaia.
So here we are, eating good food, drinking the glorious Quilmes Stout, I´m seriously thinking of importing several dozen to New Zealand. We have one more day tomorrow to clean and pack all the gear - ugh (that´s women´s work isn´t it?), before we begin our long journey home via Buenos Aires and Auckland and next Monday it´s back to that terrible W word.
It´s been a great journey, the cycling has been challenging but absolutely supurb and the Argentinians and Chilelians have been very friendly and welcoming. Over the next few weeks we will endevour to tidy the blog up a bit, replace the cat with a picture of a bicycle and of course upload some of the many thousands of photos we have taken. Thanks for following our adventures and look forward to seeing you all soon,
TIM and Tina
Ha, the cat stays!!! And my Surly rocks...
Tina :)
As a compromise, a cycling cat, so Tim stops complaining. Maybe we will add a bike as well when we get home ;)
I´d just like to point out that seen as how Tina set up this blog, I have no editorial control over anything apart from my posts... and even then Tina can overide them. How stink is that! Stupid cat!
Ha!! The cat stays... :)
The end of the road for us was literally a dot on the map at the end of Route 3 called Lapataia... supposodly the southern most road in the world... if you ignore that fact that the Islands to the south have roads, but they are part of Chile so they don´t count... if your an Argentine that is.
It was only 25km from our camp site in Ushuaia to Lapataia and it didn´t take us long to get there, and quickly take the obligatory photo before the heavens opened and tried to freeze us on the spot in a very Arctic downpour. After it had passed we took ourselves off on several short walks before setting up camp in a beautiful glade of forest. That night a large fox kept pacing around our tent and both of us were more than surprised to see the size of it when we looked outside to see who was stomping around. We later found out that this particular fox was endemic to Tierra Del Fuego and was known for its large size.
The weather was kind to us in the park, and despite the constant biting wind, the sun was largely out and the rain kept to a minimum. Yesterday we took advantage of it and hiked up a 1000 m peak to glorious views of the Beagle Channel and Islands further south. Today we half-heartedly attempted a coastal walk but our bodies were weary after a hard two months travelling and we spent most of the time lying on the grass eating. It was time to head back to Ushuaia.
So here we are, eating good food, drinking the glorious Quilmes Stout, I´m seriously thinking of importing several dozen to New Zealand. We have one more day tomorrow to clean and pack all the gear - ugh (that´s women´s work isn´t it?), before we begin our long journey home via Buenos Aires and Auckland and next Monday it´s back to that terrible W word.
It´s been a great journey, the cycling has been challenging but absolutely supurb and the Argentinians and Chilelians have been very friendly and welcoming. Over the next few weeks we will endevour to tidy the blog up a bit, replace the cat with a picture of a bicycle and of course upload some of the many thousands of photos we have taken. Thanks for following our adventures and look forward to seeing you all soon,
TIM and Tina
Ha, the cat stays!!! And my Surly rocks...
Tina :)
As a compromise, a cycling cat, so Tim stops complaining. Maybe we will add a bike as well when we get home ;)
I´d just like to point out that seen as how Tina set up this blog, I have no editorial control over anything apart from my posts... and even then Tina can overide them. How stink is that! Stupid cat!
Ha!! The cat stays... :)
Ushuaia - again
Returned to Ushuaia from the end of the road (ruta 3) and Parque National Tierra del Fuego today. Nice park with great walking. More later.. It is Tim`s turn..
Sunday 13 February 2011
Ushuaia
We made it to the southermost city in the world! Only another 25 km to go to the end of the road and the "official" end of the ride. We had a celebratory beer last night anyway, the amazing Quilmes Stout (or negro), since it felt right and you cannot have enough of Quilmes Stout... ;)
We left Punta Arenas and the South American Continent on Tuesday on the ferry to Povenir on Tierra del Fuego. Tierra del Fuego was on of those magical names on the map I always wanted to go to, and it felt strangly unreal actually being there. A group of dolfins accompanied us into the harbour of Povenir, they were beautiful to look at. In Povenir we found a bakery that made the most amazing custard rolls, then set off on the ripio (gravel) road to the Argentine border. The road hugged the coast and decended down to the ocean at times. Lovely riding in open pampa-grassy landscape with no trees. The road surface was real good, hard packed gravel, till our road joined with the main road from the north and became washboard again. There was one lonely group of trees that we camped in and met another cyclist going the other way struggling to average his planned 100km per day (into the wind, poor sod). The next day, we had a nice steady tailwind again, spend our last Chilean money on an amazing cake, crossed the busy border and road 150 km into Rio Grande. Easy progress once we hit the seal in Argentina, and the wind pushed us along nicely. Still ended up riding for 8 hours.
To help Tim get over his cold, we had a day off in Rio Grande, where the was not much to do other than rest, read, eat and chat to Ian from the UK, who had just cycled to Ushuaia from Canada and is now on his way back.
Another easy day with the wind got us to Tolhuin, where the hills amd trees started again. A nice change from the flat and garssy pampa, but a shock for the legs to actually have to pedal again. But the reward were treats from the great bakery in Tolhiun and a funky campground by the lake, where we were given homemade camp pizza, enjoyed a stunning sunset and listen to a "jam session" by other guests and the owner.
There only 107 km and a 500 m pass seperated us from Ushuaia. It was the nicest day riding we have had in a while: A steady gentle climb overlooking two lakes, and I loved being in the beech forest and mountains again. No wind either. What nobody told us it that there is another little pass after the decent from the first one. But it lead to a beautiful reddish bog plateau, and before we knew it we decended and were in the outskirts of Ushuaia. It was not the beautiful quaint little town I expected, but the centre and the location are nice. At the tourist information we refused the "Ushuaia" stamp in our passports that everyone was queing up to receive. The campground in town is at the base of its skifield, but probably only 4 km from the centre and ca 200 m up. Real nice place with great views over the fjord. Yesterday was warm and sunny, but we had rain at night and the fresh snow is not far away! Apparently summer tempertures average 15 degrees here, but not today so far..
Tomorrow we will head out to the end of the road and spend a few days in the national park, then return to Ushuaia, pack our bikes and head home.
We left Punta Arenas and the South American Continent on Tuesday on the ferry to Povenir on Tierra del Fuego. Tierra del Fuego was on of those magical names on the map I always wanted to go to, and it felt strangly unreal actually being there. A group of dolfins accompanied us into the harbour of Povenir, they were beautiful to look at. In Povenir we found a bakery that made the most amazing custard rolls, then set off on the ripio (gravel) road to the Argentine border. The road hugged the coast and decended down to the ocean at times. Lovely riding in open pampa-grassy landscape with no trees. The road surface was real good, hard packed gravel, till our road joined with the main road from the north and became washboard again. There was one lonely group of trees that we camped in and met another cyclist going the other way struggling to average his planned 100km per day (into the wind, poor sod). The next day, we had a nice steady tailwind again, spend our last Chilean money on an amazing cake, crossed the busy border and road 150 km into Rio Grande. Easy progress once we hit the seal in Argentina, and the wind pushed us along nicely. Still ended up riding for 8 hours.
To help Tim get over his cold, we had a day off in Rio Grande, where the was not much to do other than rest, read, eat and chat to Ian from the UK, who had just cycled to Ushuaia from Canada and is now on his way back.
Another easy day with the wind got us to Tolhuin, where the hills amd trees started again. A nice change from the flat and garssy pampa, but a shock for the legs to actually have to pedal again. But the reward were treats from the great bakery in Tolhiun and a funky campground by the lake, where we were given homemade camp pizza, enjoyed a stunning sunset and listen to a "jam session" by other guests and the owner.
There only 107 km and a 500 m pass seperated us from Ushuaia. It was the nicest day riding we have had in a while: A steady gentle climb overlooking two lakes, and I loved being in the beech forest and mountains again. No wind either. What nobody told us it that there is another little pass after the decent from the first one. But it lead to a beautiful reddish bog plateau, and before we knew it we decended and were in the outskirts of Ushuaia. It was not the beautiful quaint little town I expected, but the centre and the location are nice. At the tourist information we refused the "Ushuaia" stamp in our passports that everyone was queing up to receive. The campground in town is at the base of its skifield, but probably only 4 km from the centre and ca 200 m up. Real nice place with great views over the fjord. Yesterday was warm and sunny, but we had rain at night and the fresh snow is not far away! Apparently summer tempertures average 15 degrees here, but not today so far..
Tomorrow we will head out to the end of the road and spend a few days in the national park, then return to Ushuaia, pack our bikes and head home.
Monday 7 February 2011
A new benchmark for wind
We all seem to define the magnitude of things by past experiences, and these past experiences act as a benchmark for later in life. I think it´s fair to say that our benchmark for wind has been re-established in Patagonia and in the years to come we will both be heard offering statements such as "Oh it's windy, but remember that day in Patagonia in 2011, well...."
Anyway, I digress. From Puerto Natales we looked forward to what we thought would be a relatively straight forward 240 km on paved roads with the wind behind us all the way to Puerto Arenas where will leave the South American continent and travel by ferry to the island of Tierra Del Fuego. It started off reasonably straight forward as we cruised out of town and headed east. The wind, as it usually does increased throughout the day so that by about midday, all you had to do was virtually lift your feet off the ground and the force would do the rest. This is a great tactic, until the road makes a ninety degree turn and this fore is coming from the side. At a small town of Morro Chicco, the road did this on our map, and in the interests of actually enjoying the holiday we stopped for the day and were directed to a derelict barn by the local constabulary.
An early start was in order the next day in order to cheat the wind. However, it already knew and when our alarm went off at 5.30am (a pretty normal wake up time on this ´holiday´) it was already pretty strong. Off we went and we made pretty good progress for a bit getting to the next big turn (eastwards again) before things got too ridiculous, and a glorious tailwind ensued...sweet. We stopped for lunch in one of the many Victorian stylised bus stops that provided the only shelter on the bleak steppe and readied ourselves for the road ahead. The wind was now humming through the landscape. We passed a monument to the wind - I wasn't sure whether to place a biscuit in its base as a peace offering or spit on it in disgust but the wind was obviously not impressed as rounding the next bend it swept us off our feet. Reduced to pushing over a small rise, it actually managed to push the rear of my fully laden bike across the pavement onto the road. In the end we had to walk on the leeward side of the bikes with our right bum cheek firmly up against the seat and even then we only just managed to push our overloaded beasts over the top. Thankfully, at the top, the road swung eastwards again and we flew towards the coast hardly pushing a pedal in anger.
Of course, as all cyclists know, the problem with tailwinds is that they are usually over very quickly, and the headwinds last forever. To be honest, headwind sounded glorious as we again veered south and the side wind swept the wheels from under us again. With Tina on the front, and me on the rear, we rode at the peculiar angle to the road we are getting used to (diagonally) while I kept an eye on oncoming traffic yelling out orders such a OFF and CLEAR so that whenever traffic came from behind us we could get off the damned road as the wind made sure we used practically all of it. After 20 km, and only 30km from our destination we had had enough. We asked a local police station whether we could camp there and were led across the road to a little shelter complete with some rickety old chairs and table. "Anything you want, you just ask" we were told. The Chilean police, like their Argentine counterparts have been nothing but amazing on this journey.
This morning, another 5.30am start ensued, we cruised into town, checked into a room at 9am and we are both thoroughly enjoying being out of the bloody wind. Tomorrow... we leave for Tierra Del Fuego. Rumour has it, it takes most people a few hours to recover from the two and half hour crossing, fingers crossed its a calm day, yeah right - could be a Tui add. The benchmark has been set though, I imagine it will take a few years until I complain about the north-westers in Christchurch again!
TIM
Just a quick note: We may not have internet again till Ushuaia, a week or so away.
Hope all is well! Tina
Just a quick note: We may not have internet again till Ushuaia, a week or so away.
Hope all is well! Tina
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